Our Tundra Wildlife tour of Denali started at the ungodly hour of
5:45am. Our guide Kate looked very earthy and pleasant and spoke
like a 1st grade teacher with an interesting lilt in her voice.
However, our vehicle for the tour was nothing to brag about. The
style, “Early School Bus” with tight and hard seating,
small foggy windows, and a very narrow isle, cramped with 60 eager
sightseers and photographers. Probably the most inappropriate mode
of transport to see and appreciate Denali’s majestic vistas.
Not that I disagree with the park department’s policy of no
private vehicles in the park, which is indeed an excellent way to
keep Denali pristine. However, they should have given a little more
thought as to the comfort and practicality of the transport that
they are showing off this park to the visitors with. Enough of that,
though! We managed to catch glimpses of the local wild life, which
incidentally did not care to show itself till late morning; so much
for our early departure…..
Our guide, the earthy Kate, spotted for us a pair
of wolves in the distance, a foraging honey-colored grizzly and
a family of Dahl sheep grazing on the hillside. Later on we caught
on to this art of “spotting” and were able to distinguish
the white spots on the steep slopes as sheep and not just boulders.
The ptarmigan birds were rather tame and in variable feathers just
waiting by the roadside for their portraits to be taken. Later on
we also met up with a caribou and a moose with their tiny calves.
The scenery what we could see of it was majestic, vast and wild.
The clouds rolled in and out, the fog rolled in and out, then it
rained, then it cleared up a bit, but The Mountain (Mt. McKinley
that is) was in hiding and we never even saw its footsies. Still
the experience left me in awe, and wishful of returning here sometime
to really immerse myself in the beauty and unequaled wildness of
this place. Yes, maybe someday….
After this most memorable tour we parted with Denali
and it’s rattling transport, and re-boarded our old friend
the McKinley Explorer that speeded us toward Fairbanks. Once again
we took our chances in the dining car, where our dinner proved to
be up to par with the décor and ambiance. There is something
very nostalgic about having dinner on the train. Memories of yester-years….
Our ride was most comfortable and picturesque by the side of the
Tanana River. (Tanana is Athabascan for Mountain Water).
We awoke to sunshine and blue skies in Fairbanks
and ready for our first tour for this morning with a paddleboat
on the Chena River. We saw the usual dog and pony show by the river
side, such as planes taking of and landing from a backyard strip,
dog musher Suzan Butcher (Iditarod winner) training her sled dogs,
Athabaskan native preparing fish on the slab, just your normal everyday
life in Alaska.
Eventually we stopped at a native village, well,
a make believe village, most ingeniously called “ Chena Indian
Village”. Here we were further educated on animal skins and
clothing by Dixie Alexander an Athabascan native, as well as on
the fine science of dog mushing (sledding).
By the way the dogs were exceptionally friendly, inquisitive, playful
and affectionate. And, coming from me that is a real praise. As
you all know, I am a cat person!
In the afternoon we had more education in store
for us. This time we visited Gold Dredge No 8., a true representative
of a bygone era. We had miner style lunch with the long tables and
benches, kettles of stew, baskets of bread and fantastic little
packets of honey. Here too we were encouraged to try our luck at
panning for gold, and once again with about the same success that
we had at the trapper’s camp in Denali. But here they actually
weighted our treasure and gave us the price of our toils. My findings
were about a whopping figure of five dollars worth!
We closed our memorable day with drinks at the
hotel’s bar in the company of Suzie.
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